The Short Version

An Ayurvedic facial is built around warm herbal oils, hands-on massage and the Ayurvedic idea of balancing the doshas. A "regular" facial is a loose label for the conventional facials on most spa and clinic menus, which may use exfoliating acids, extractions or devices. Neither has strong research showing it beats the other, so the choice is mostly about the experience and ingredients you want. At Shanti Dhara Wellness in Palo Alto, the option is Ayurvedic: the Herbal Essence Facial is $258 for 75 minutes, and the Full Experience is $298 for 90 minutes. The menu lists no peels or machine-based facials.

This guide compares the two approaches using what the studio's menu says, what dermatology sources say about skin care ingredients, and what research on Ayurveda does and does not show.

Regular facialAyurvedic facial
Starting pointThe skin in front of the provider, chosen by skin type and concernThe Ayurvedic dosha framework (Vata, Pitta and Kapha)
IngredientsMore often active ingredients such as exfoliating acids or retinoidsPlant ingredients and oils; Shanti Dhara's menu names herbal essence oils
TechniqueMay include steaming, manual extractions, exfoliation and masksWarm oil and hands-on massage; tradition also describes marma points
ToolsSometimes devices such as LED panelsHands and oil; the 90-minute Full Experience adds a chest/arm herbal compress or eye/scraping care
ResearchActives have trade-offs: the AAD says retinoids can irritate and increase sun sensitivityNCCIH: few well-designed trials suggest Ayurvedic approaches are effective
At Shanti DharaThe menu lists no peels or machine-based facialsHerbal Essence Facial, 75 min, $258; Full Experience, 90 min, $298

Different Starting Points

Conventional facials vary a great deal. Some are gentle cleansing and hydration treatments; others include chemical exfoliation, extractions or devices such as LED panels. What they share is a focus on the skin in front of the provider, chosen by skin type and concern.

An Ayurvedic facial starts from a different framework. Ayurveda is, in the words of the US National Center for Complementary and Integrative Health (NCCIH), "one of India's traditional health care systems." Ayurveda describes each person in terms of doshas, named Vata, Pitta and Kapha (see our guide to understanding your dosha). Shanti Dhara's menu describes its Herbal Essence Facial in those terms: it "includes herbal essence oils and sound bowl/music healing" and "uses precise techniques to balance Doshas, relieve tension, and revitalize skin."

It helps to know how much research sits behind that framework. NCCIH says that "few well-designed clinical trials and systematic research reviews suggest that Ayurvedic approaches are effective." Dosha balancing is a traditional concept, not a tested medical outcome, so treat an Ayurvedic facial as a traditional, relaxing treatment rather than a clinical one.

Ingredients: Plant Oils and Herbs vs. Actives

Ayurvedic facials usually feature plant ingredients and oils. Shanti Dhara's menu names "herbal essence oils" but does not list specific herbs, so ask what is used if you have allergies or sensitive skin.

Turmeric is a plant ingredient associated with Ayurvedic skin care that has also been studied clinically. A 2016 systematic review in Phytotherapy Research identified 18 clinical studies of turmeric or curcumin products taken by mouth or applied to the skin, for conditions from acne to psoriasis. Ten found statistically significant improvement compared with control groups, and the authors concluded there is "early evidence" of benefit while noting that "currently published studies are limited." None of those studies tested an Ayurvedic facial.

Plant-based does not mean reaction-free. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) warns: "Even 'natural' or 'clean' skin care products can cause a skin reaction," and it lists fragrance among common allergens in skin care products. If your skin is reactive, say so before any facial, Ayurvedic or not.

Illustrative image of plant-based skin care ingredients.

Conventional facials more often use active ingredients such as exfoliating acids or retinoids. These have their own trade-offs. The AAD says retinoids can irritate skin if you start too aggressively and increase sun sensitivity, and that "before getting a chemical peel, some patients need to follow a pre-peel skin care plan for 2 to 4 weeks." Strength and formulation matter, so ask what a specific facial uses.

Technique: Hands and Oil vs. Tools and Devices

A conventional facial may include steaming, manual extractions, exfoliation, masks and sometimes devices. Which of these you get depends on the provider and the treatment you book.

An Ayurvedic facial centers on warm oil and hands-on massage. Traditional Ayurvedic practice also describes marma points, specific points on the body worked with pressure during massage. These are a traditional concept; we did not find research establishing them as anatomical structures, so read any claims about what a given point does as tradition rather than physiology.

At Shanti Dhara, the 90-minute Full Experience "adds chest/arm herbal compress or eye/scraping care." The menu does not describe these in more detail, so if you want to know what the eye or scraping care involves, or whether extractions are part of either facial, ask when you book.

Practitioner's fingertips pressing on a person's forehead and temple during an oil facial massage
Illustrative image.

Results and Expectations

Be wary of any facial, of either kind, that promises a specific result or a set number of days of glow. The AAD cautions against "exaggerated promises, such as look 10 years younger overnight," calling them "too good to be true." How your skin looks after a facial depends on the treatment, the products and your skin, and we did not find research that sets a typical duration for results.

What you can plan around is how your skin reacts. If you have an event coming up, avoid trying a treatment or product for the first time right before it. If your skin reacts, you will want time for it to settle. For a treatment you have had before without problems, you already know what to expect.

If you have a skin condition such as persistent acne, rosacea or eczema, a dermatologist is the right person to treat it. A facial of either kind is a cosmetic or relaxation service, not a treatment for skin disease.

Who Might Prefer Which

A conventional facial may suit you if:

  • You want a specific technique, such as extractions or a chemical exfoliation, from a provider who offers it
  • You prefer products chosen by skin type and concern
  • You are comfortable with active ingredients and know how your skin tolerates them

An Ayurvedic facial may suit you if:

  • You want a slow, hands-on treatment with warm oils
  • You are interested in the Ayurvedic dosha framework as part of the experience
  • Relaxation is as important to you as the look of your skin; Shanti Dhara's facial includes sound bowl or music healing

For more on the studio's facial, see Ayurvedic facials in Palo Alto.

FAQ: Ayurvedic vs. Regular Facials

Can I combine Ayurvedic and regular facials?

You can. We found no standard rule for spacing them, so tell each provider what else you have had recently, especially any peel, exfoliating acid or retinoid, and follow their advice.

Are Ayurvedic facials safe for sensitive or acne-prone skin?

It depends on your skin and the products used. The AAD notes that even "natural" skin care products can cause a reaction, so ask which oils and herbs are used and mention any allergies. If you use prescription acne treatment or have active cystic acne, check with your dermatologist before booking.

How long do facial results last?

We found no reliable figure for either kind of facial, because it depends on the treatment, the products and your skin. Be cautious of anyone who promises a set number of days.

Do I need to know my dosha before booking?

No. The menu describes the Herbal Essence Facial as balancing the doshas but does not ask you to know yours. If you have been told your dosha elsewhere, you can mention it.

Can men get Ayurvedic facials?

Yes. Nothing on Shanti Dhara's menu limits the Herbal Essence Facial to women. Skin type and concerns vary from person to person regardless of gender, so describe your own skin when you book.

Pricing and Booking

The Herbal Essence Facial at Shanti Dhara Wellness (2875 Middlefield Rd, Suite 8, 2nd floor, Palo Alto) is $258 for 75 minutes or $298 for the 90-minute Full Experience. The studio is open Tuesday through Sunday and closed Monday. Call (650) 283-9121 or book from the menu.